Tag Archives: Croatia

TraveLynn Tales: a year around the world

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By Lynn Strough

Travelynn Tales

 

Just the words, “world travel” sound romantic. What’s it like to really chuck it all and travel around the world for a year? After visiting over a dozen countries on a shoestring-budget, I thought I’d do a little visual re-cap of some of the highlights.

 

First stop on my world travel adventure — Australia, including the Great Barrier Reef in Cairns, where I took a leap of faith as well as a leap in the ocean, and later frolicked with rock wallabies, felt the spiritual draw of Uluru, soaked up the sun on Sydney’s beaches and toured the famous opera house. From the capitol, Canberra, to Melbourne to Tasmania, I not only explored all the scenic beauty Australia has to offer, but the beauty and hospitality of the people as well, couch surfing with wonderful souls who opened their homes to me (too many on this journey to name in one blog).

 

Sad to leave the land of Oz, I was at the same time excited to check out the natural beauty of New Zealand’s South Island, from fjords to waterfalls, helicopters and glaciers and swimming with dolphins — to tracks and tramping to wine. It was sensory-overload in every aspect.

 

After all that adventure, it was time to slow down with a 10-day silent meditation retreat in Thailand, focusing on breathing and letting thoughts float by (world travel isn’t all about constantly moving). Other treats lay in store in Thailand as well, like cooking class, night market shopping and even swimming with elephants.

 

From there, a swing through Cambodia to watch the sun rise over Angkor Wat, the largest temple complex in the world and with the help of a generous friend, to buy a tuk tuk for a young man struggling to start his own business.

 

Japan has long been on my list, and exceeded any dreams of what this locale would bring. From the bustle of Tokyo, to a ryokan in cherry blossom-filled mountains near snow monkeys soaking in hot springs — to historic, temple and shrine-filled Kyoto and out to the hush of Arashiyama’s bamboo-forest, Japan was a feast for the senses.

 

As hard as it was leaving Japan, Croatia was calling, with historic cities like Dubrovnik, Split, Zagreb, and Zadar — crystalline waters of National Parks Plitvice and Krka, and scenic islands to hop — Mljet, Korcula, Brac, Hvar, and hundreds more, all set like gems in the vast blue ocean, the colors of which are hard to describe. I even managed to slip in a day trip to Montenegro.

 

Farewell, Croatia meant hello, Slovenia and fairytale Bled, with its island and church and jade-colored lake — and of course, what fairytale would be complete without castle, knights and dancing ladies?

 

Only thoughts of Italy, Venice and gelato, could pry me away from Slovenia. Who can resist singing gondoliers, carnival masks, bridge-stitched canals and Italian wine? Italy also brought the Amalfi coast, Isle of Capri, historic Pompeii, Rome and the Cinque Terra.

 

France included not only couch surfing in Paris and tangoing in front of the Eiffel Tower, but a free private tour on the top of Notre Dame amidst a city full of art and architecture. Loire Valley is filled with castles and I managed to explore several, including Chenonceau, Villandry, Cheverny, and Chambord. Although I didn’t meet a prince, I did get rescued by a fairy godmother, but that’s another story.

 

In the South of France, amidst fields of sunflowers, I sat for a couple of weeks. My first housesit for two little poodles (and a lazy tortoise) gave me use of my own private pool. Spain also lay waiting on my world travels — beautiful Barcelona, infused with the influence of Gaudi, including Parc Guell and Sagrada Familia, and tapas and flamenco rounded out the experience.

 

After months of sun and following summer, it was time to head someplace cool, so I hopped a flight to the emerald isle of Ireland where for a few days in Dublin, I discovered the joys of craic (Irish fun, including music and liquid refreshment) and was even turned temporarily into a leprechaun. Renting a car was the only way to get around on the backroads, so I headed off on the Wild Atlantic Way, through fields of green in every shade, along coast, past grazing sheep, through rainbow villages and castles and Celtic ruins.

 

In time for my second housesit, I flew to Scotland, where first I sampled the magnificent city of Edinburgh, then headed to Fort William to care for a feisty border collie and hike the highlands, while housesitting in a Victorian manse on a hill overlooking a loch.

 

From one dog sit to another to another, I was dropped into Dickens, in a little village called Corsham, where I walked much more slowly with my 15-year-old charge and also fed a visiting peacock named Kevin. A day to cruise through Bath led to four days in lovely London, full of museums, parks and markets.

 

Rounding out my year of world travel was yet another dog sit in Hove in the south of England, for two lively little dachshunds and walks on Brighton’s promenade. All in all, it was an amazing journey — this just scratches the surface.

 

When my year was over, not ready to return to the States, I spent six months in Thailand writing about my adventures. I’m now wintering in Mexico!

 

About Lynn Strough

Lynn is a 50+ wanderer whose incarnations in this life have included graphic designer, children’s book author and illustrator, public speaker, teacher, fine art painter, wine educator in the Napa Valley, and world traveler. Through current circumstances, she has found herself single, without a job or a home, and poised for a great adventure.

 

“You could consider me homeless and unemployed, but I prefer nomad and self-employed, as I pack up my skills and head off with my small backpack and even smaller savings to circumnavigate the globe (or at least go until the money runs out). Get ready to tag along for the ride…starting now!”

 

travelynnlogoAll images copyright Lynn Strough and Travelynn Tales

Reprinted with permission

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day Tripping — Montenegro and Lokrum

By Lynn Strough

Travelynn Tales

 

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Welcome to this week’s chapter in the ongoing series by our world traveler, Lynn Strough. Let’s do some day tripping!

Not far from Dubrovnik, Croatia, is the country of Montenegro, and it’s easy and inexpensive to go day tripping there. Montenegro is known for its beaches and the old city of Kotor, and they’re both worth a look, although on the day I was there, so were three cruise ships and thousands of other tourists, so not the ideal circumstances for my visit.

 

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In Kotor, you will find inside the city walls, plenty of places to shop and to dine –- it’s quite touristy. But you will also see some interesting architecture, and the inevitable beautiful doors and flapping laundry. An old fortress gives you some lovely views and more places to relax.

 

Many people go there to climb to the top of the mountain above Kotor, although we were told by our tour guide that we didn’t have time. Our guide also informed us on numerous occasions that Montenegro has become a playground for rich Russians. I don’t know if this is true, but there is certainly wealth displayed, in the marina in the form of large yachts, as well as on the nearby tiny island of Sveti Stefan where the 5-star Aman Sveti Stefan hotel beckons to those with deep pockets.

 

 

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It’s always fun to discover the local color of a new country, including markets and graffiti, and taking a day trip to Montenegro is certainly worth a visit, although it’s not on my top list of places to go. I’ve met people who love Montenegro and people who don’t, and to be fair, going on a tour — even a small group tour — isn’t the best way to get the full picture, although I hope you’ve enjoyed a few of mine.

 

Day trips to Mostar, Bosnia, are also available, although I was told it’s five hours on a bus round trip, with only an hour and 1/2 off the bus to see the famous Stari Most bridge, which is not the original but a reconstruction started in 2001. I skipped this.

 

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More my style for Dubrovnik day tripping, it’s just a little leap to the island of Lokrum, a nature reserve where it’s possible to get away from the crowds of the old town. You depart from the harbor in Dubrovnik, and it’s only a 15-minute scenic ride by taxi-boat. 6.30 euro includes your ride and entrance into the island park reserve. Bring your bathing suit, as you can swim off of one of the many ladders that sink into the sea, or then again, you may not need one.

 

On the island, you can also go hiking, past the Benedictine monastery and up to the top to the old fort, for some interesting history and amazing views. Wear good hiking shoes, as the trails are dirt and rocks and slippery pine needles. It smells like sea and balsam, and I heard a young man with a guitar, sitting on top of the fort strumming and singing.

 

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The only inhabitants of the island are feathered and full of eyes. Peacocks were brought over from the Canary Islands a century and a half ago, and wander the auto-less island freely. This guy strutted up to me, spread his fan tail, then turned his back on me. I wasn’t sure if he was flirting with me or mooning me.

 

There are a couple of restaurants on the island, but my recommendation is to pack a picnic and pick one of the many perfect rocky shores to dine with a view.

 

Day tripping from Dubrovnik is easy and affordable, so why not stay a few more days before heading off to the rest of the islands, any of over 1000 of them.

 

About Lynn Strough

Lynn is a 50-something-year-old woman whose incarnations in this life have included graphic designer, children’s book author and illustrator, public speaker, teacher, fine art painter, wine educator in the Napa Valley, and world traveler. Through current 31circumstances, she has found herself single, without a job or a home, and poised for a great adventure.

 

“You could consider me homeless and unemployed, but I prefer nomad and self-employed, as I pack up my skills and head off with my small backpack and even smaller savings to circumnavigate the globe (or at least go until the money runs out). Get ready to tag along for the ride…starting now!”

 

 

 

travelynnlogoAll images copyright Lynn Strough and Travelynn Tales

Reprinted with permission

Time to Split, Croatia

By Lynn Strough

Travelynn Tales

 

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Welcome to this week’s chapter in the ongoing series by our world traveler, Lynn Strough. Here, Lynn takes us to Split, Croatia.

Split is a vibrant town on Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast, which is known for Diocletian’s Palace, a fortress-like structure erected by the Roman emperor in the 4th century. Now it’s full of restaurants, shops, cathedrals, hotels, and tourists.

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Note that the cruise ships dump huge crowds here, but if you see the tour guides holding up a flag followed by the masses, just head the other direction. They usually go for the area with the most souvenir shops.

 

If you’re in the old town at the right time, you might bump into some men in metal or possibly even Santa Claus or Dumbledore.

 

You’ll notice many interesting architectural details both on the ground and up in the air if you climb the bell tower, which I have to say is a really high one! Inside the walls, you’ll find the beautiful Croatian National Theatre and just outside the walls, a colorful market.

 

 

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Speaking of walls, there is a fair amount of graffiti, but most of it is artistic and interesting. Oftentimes in Split, you’ll stumble on to a flea market, and you never know what you might find. And after the sun goes down, the colorful lights come on, if you’re into late nights with food festivals and free concerts… free, unless you care to donate some spare Kuna.

 

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If you tire of old town Split, there are many day trip opportunities, like taking a ferry to the island of Brac (pronounced “Brach”), which is known for its very famous beach, Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape). This beach is a protected nature park and it changes shape under the influence of tides and waves.

 

If water and beaches aren’t your thing, there’s Trogir, another walled village a short bus ride away from Split. It has the usual fortress you can climb for a view, plus canals, shops, restaurants, churches and the like for you to explore. Or you can set up office with a pizza and free wifi, if you need to get a little travel blogging done.

 

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Now, after a month in Croatia, it’s time for me to split Split and head to Slovenia. But looking back, what’s not to love about Croatia? I’d go back in a heartbeat, and highly recommend it for a beautiful, affordable, fun and sun-filled holiday for you.

 

About Lynn Strough

Lynn is a 50-something-year-old woman whose incarnations in this life have included graphic designer, children’s book author and illustrator, public speaker, teacher, fine art painter, wine educator in the Napa Valley, and world traveler. Through current circumstances, she has found herself single, without a job or a home, and poised for a great adventure.

 

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“You could consider me homeless and unemployed, but I prefer nomad and self-employed, as I pack up my skills and head off with my small backpack and even smaller savings to circumnavigate the globe (or at least go until the money runs out). Get ready to tag along for the ride…starting now!”

 

 

 

travelynnlogoAll images copyright Lynn Strough and Travelynn Tales

Reprinted with permission

Heavenly Hvar, Croatia

By Lynn Strough

TravelynnTales

 

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Welcome to this week’s chapter in the ongoing series by our world traveler, Lynn Strough. More Croatia is in store…

Hvar is glitzy and high-rolling, and it’s where the yachting crowd comes to see and be seen. On Hvar, you might go for a morning stroll and be so mesmerized by the scenery, that you’re still in the same spot at sunset. The Hula Hula Bar offers comfy lounge chairs for a pittance, with a view to die for.

 

I stopped for a breakfast orange juice, stayed for a salad for lunch, and found myself sipping a glass of wine watching the sun sink into the sea several hours later, and I wasn’t the only one. I met lots of people from all over the world who were also tethered to their chairs for the day, other than to periodically take a dip in the crystal clear, freezing cold water.

 

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If you prefer to be on the water, rather than in it, there are plenty of opportunities, from ferries to water taxis, power boats to boats powered by wind. Sailing is my preference, so my new friend Roma (from California) and I headed out for a half-day sail. They take up to 10 passengers on this 35′ racing boat modified as a cruiser, but we got lucky as it wasn’t peak season, and had the boat and Captain Bronco all to ourselves.

 

The gods provided great wind, and at 15 knots we were sailing. It was blowing 30 knots farther out, but Captain B decided to keep it a little less exciting and more comfortable, as it turns out Roma had never sailed before.

 

We sailed to a nearby tiny island, to Palmizana on San Clemente, for lunch. It’s a gorgeous spot, with a beautiful harbor to protect the yachts, and a few small restaurants. It’s a real life Garden of Eden, where if you look carefully, you might even spot Adam and Eve.

 

15Back on Hvar, we got ambitious and climbed the hill to the fortress for some spectacular views of the harbor and rooftops below. Hvar is a medieval city, with walls started in 1278. There’s a strong Venetian influence in the architecture, as the Venetians ruled here on more than one occasion.

 

Besides the walled old town and famous harbor, Hvar is also known for its vineyards and wines, olive groves, and especially its lavender fields, and it’s one of the sunniest islands. With a population of over 11,000, it’s the fourth most populated of the islands of Croatia.

 

 

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As with all of the water I’ve seen in Croatia — inland lakes, rivers and waterfalls, as well as the sea — it’s crystal clear and the most breathtaking shades of blues and greens.

 

You can spend a small fortune staying at one of the fancy hotels, or a very affordable $50 per night for a good-sized room that sleeps three, if you’re willing to stay out of town and walk a bit. I stayed at an “apartman,” a room in a guest house, about a 15-minute walk from the center of town, but I didn’t mind as the walk was along the sea with scenic views the whole way.

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And this location put me about half-way between the old town in one direction, and another fabulous beach in the other direction, also with a scenic walk to get there.

 

The town itself is filled with great little restaurants and shops, full of enticing things. Other than food, my one souvenir was a couple of little sachets of fragrant dried lavender to tuck into my well-worn hiking boots, a big improvement in their scent.

 

There are plenty of night clubs and bars if you want a vibrant night-life. And on Hvar, as in all of Croatia, I felt very safe, even walking around alone after dark, with the moon and stars and lamplight to guide me back to my temporary home.

 

31About Lynn Strough

Lynn is a 50-something-year-old woman whose incarnations in this life have included graphic designer, children’s book author and illustrator, public speaker, teacher, fine art painter, wine educator in the Napa Valley, and world traveler. Through current circumstances, she has found herself single, without a job or a home, and poised for a great adventure.

 

“You could consider me homeless and unemployed, but I prefer nomad and self-employed, as I pack up my skills and head off with my small backpack and even smaller savings to circumnavigate the globe (or at least go until the money runs out). Get ready to tag along for the ride…starting now!”

 

 

 

travelynnlogoAll images copyright Lynn Strough and Travelynn Tales

Reprinted with permission

Captivating Croatia: Zadar and Krka

By Lynn Strough

Travelynn Tales

 

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Welcome to this week’s chapter in the ongoing series by our world traveler, Lynn Strough. It’s time for more Croatia…

Renting a car in Croatia is one of the best ways to see the countryside and get around. The roads are good, and directions are easy to follow. My friend Beth and I drove from Plitvice Lakes National Park a couple of hours down to the small city of Zadar, which is near another national park called Krka (yes, that’s how it’s spelled, although it may seem to us English speakers to be missing a vowel or two).

 

Zadar is filled with beautiful churches and other old buildings, as well as some interesting Roman ruins. It’s lovely old town is a great place to wander around in, just meandering through the alleyways. It’s small enough where you can’t really get lost, and if you do, the sea is right there to reorient you.

 

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‘Greeting to the Sun’ by Nikola Basic

There are two points of special interest overlooking the sea, both by the same artist, Nikola Basic. The sea organ is a sculptural musical instrument played by the tides (water pushes air out of tubes under long cement stairs) where you can sit and listen to what the sea has to say, while watching the sunset. Also created by Basic is Greeting to the Sun, a solar-powered interactive piece that you can walk (or dance!) on, made up of hundreds of solar panels that soak up the rays during the day, and put on a colorful moving light show at night.

 

 

 

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As far as accommodations go, you’ll find there are more “Apartmans” than hotels or B&B’s in Croatia. An apartman is usually a room in somebody’s home, or sometimes a whole apartment, and they are quite affordable. Both in a village near Plitvice and in Zadar, we were able to find two-bedroom apartments that could easily sleep four (or more if someone sleeps on the couch) for a total of around $55 per night. So if you’re traveling on a budget, Croatia is a very affordable place to visit. (I also think Apartman is secretly a new superhero waiting to be born — picture a guy with limbs that pull apart, similar to those toys with elastic strings.)

 

15Not far away is the small town of Skradin, which is a gateway to Krka National Park. Skradin is worth an hour or two on its own, with charming narrow streets hugging the hillside, a church worth a look inside, and restaurants and shops that tumble down to the sea, where you can catch a boat up the river to Krka.

 

There is much debate about which national park is preferable, Plitvice or Krka, and I have an easy solution–go see both. They’re both stunningly beautiful, full of bright, blue-green waterfalls, but they’re also very different. For one thing, you can swim at Krka right near the falls, which is forbidden at Plitvice, although you aren’t allowed to jump from the bridge.

 

Zadar and Kryka are affordable and gorgeous. Consider a visit there. I think you’ll love what you’ll find.

 

IMG_7244-1024x768About Lynn Strough

Lynn is a 50-something-year-old woman whose incarnations in this life have included graphic designer, children’s book author and illustrator, public speaker, teacher, fine art painter, wine educator in the Napa Valley, and world traveler. Through current circumstances, she has found herself single, without a job or a home, and poised for a great adventure.

 

“You could consider me homeless and unemployed, but I prefer nomad and self-employed, as I pack up my skills and head off with my small backpack and even smaller savings to circumnavigate the globe (or at least go until the money runs out). Get ready to tag along for the ride…starting now!”

 

 

 

travelynnlogoAll images copyright Lynn Strough and Travelynn Tales

Reprinted with permission

In love with Croatia: From A to Zagreb

By Lynn Strough

Travelynn Tales

 

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Croatia is one of my new favorite countries. Its capital, Zagreb is a gateway into a country 26full of beautiful scenery, interesting history and kind people. It’s a great mix of old and new, including old peeling walls, beautiful churches and a bustling square.


Art appears everywhere, spilling out into the streets, and great graffiti graces the walls. It’s also a city full of museums. If you’re looking for something a little different, check out the Museum of Broken Relationships, sad, funny and heartening all at once, a glimpse of the human condition that most can relate to.

 

 

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Great restaurants abound in Zagreb. So do places to grab a snack, and there are plenty of shopping opportunities as well as lots of green space. It’s easy to get around on the local blue trams and other forms of transportation.

 

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My friend Beth from Michigan flew into Zagreb to join me for a week of travel in Croatia, and we spent two lovely days here. She said her time in Croatia was one of her best trips ever!

 

So if you’re looking for a destination that’s full of history, charm, art, architecture, good food and good people, with an affordable price tag, consider Croatia. Come on along for the ride, and then book your own ticket.

 

 

About Lynn Strough

Lynn is a 50-something-year-old woman whose incarnations in this life have included graphic designer, children’s book author and illustrator, public speaker, teacher, fine art painter, wine educator in the Napa Valley, and world traveler. Through current circumstances, she has found herself single, without a job or a home, and poised for a great adventure.

 

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“You could consider me homeless and unemployed, but I prefer nomad and self-employed, as I pack up my skills and head off with my small backpack and even smaller savings to circumnavigate the globe (or at least go until the money runs out). Get ready to tag along for the ride…starting now!”

 

 

 

 

travelynnlogoAll images copyright Lynn Strough and Travelynn Tales

Reprinted with permission