By Lynn Strough
This is the fifth installment chronicling the adventures of Lynn Strough, a local artist and writer who’s been traveling the world since November 2014. Lynn’s travels have (so far) taken her to Australia, New Zealand, Thailand, Cambodia, Japan, Slovenia, Croatia, Ireland, England, France, Italy… and I’m sure we’re forgetting a few destinations. To learn more about her journey, go here.
Udonthani, like most of Thailand, is a blend of old and new, low tech and high tech, and
local market and super market.
What’s it like to live like a local in Thailand? I was lucky enough to find out, thanks to a connection made by another Travel Angel, my friend Lee in California, who introduced me via email to what turned out to be two more Travel Angels, Paul and Joi. They live in Udonthani, which is a fairly big city in the northeast of Thailand, however they live in the outskirts, so in effect, more like a village, with quick access to the city center.
They welcomed me with open arms, and I settled into village life for a week, which included meeting Joi’s mother, who lives with them, as well as many of the other nearby relatives and neighbors.
The days started with Joi rising about 5:30 am to cook rice for alms for the monks. At about 6:20 am the three of us would join other neighbors out on the street to give out rice, fruit, and packets of coffee to the monks who pass by and chant us a blessing.
After our breakfast of scrambled eggs, corn on the cob, and cool, sweet mint-green guava juice, we head to the market, where I see a plethora of interesting fruits, vegetables, fish, and piles of my nemesis, mushrooms, as well as things I’m not sure how to categorize. Longans (I call them the little round eyeball fruit), tamarind, sweet juicy mangos, dragon fruit, they’re all here for pennies.
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The market is even busier in the evenings. Lots of people stop by to pick up their dinner, assorted pre-made meals in little clear plastic baggies, curries and tofu balls floating in brown liquid – their version of fast food. Joi knew just how to pick the sweetest, juiciest fruit, and later, made mango with coconut sticky rice for dessert, pure ambrosia! And there are always lottery tickets for sale if you want to try your luck.
When Paul mentioned he gets his eye drops in Thailand for a fraction of what they cost in the U.S., I told him I pay $40 a pill for my migraine prescription and he immediately insisted that they take me to see their doctor at the local hospital to find out if I could buy some there. It’s about $10-15 to see the doctor to write the prescription, and yes, they have my rx for $5 a tablet! They even gave me my own medical card, even though I’m just a visitor (I said Ms, but they added an R).
Paul ordered 100, enough to last me a year. It was a big bite out of my travel budget, but is such a relief to not have to worry about where I can refill. The doctor asked, “Do you really want that many? They are very expensive, $5 each!” He has no idea. (As a side note, I also found them affordably in Australia, although a much smaller quantity. Same medication, same brand, made in the U.S., but eight times more expensive for us in the States – there’s something wrong here…)
We made a day trip to nearby Nong Khai, a town on the 2700 mile-long Mekong River, just across from Laos, where they treated me to a feast. Joi went to school in Nong Khai for years, living with the monks, so we visited his old school. By the way, the Mekong is the world’s 12th longest river, running through China, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam.
I even got to go to the local barbershop with the guys, where they can get a 45-minute shave and a haircut for $1.85. The barber likes them as they tip about 100%. Some things are universal – Joi plays Candy Crush and other games while he waits his turn.
On my last day, we took an early morning walk past the rice paddies, which were dried up and brown now, but will be lush and green soon with the rainy season. We saw stray dogs and water buffalo, and the round peach sun rising, along with its twin floating on the water.
Paul and Joi were delightful hosts, kind and generous, fun and funny, and they showed me a side of Thailand I wouldn’t have seen as a tourist. Many thanks, Kob Khun Ka!
About Lynn Strough
Lynn is a 50-something year old woman whose incarnations in this life have included graphic designer, children’s book author and illustrator, public speaker, teacher, fine art painter, wine educator in the Napa Valley, and world traveler. Through current circumstances, she has found herself single, without a job or a home, and poised for a great adventure.
“You could consider me homeless and unemployed, but I prefer nomad and self-employed, as I pack up my skills and head off with my small backpack and even smaller savings to circumnavigate the globe (or at least go until the money runs out). Get ready to tag along for the ride…starting now!”
All images copyright Lynn Strough and Travelynn Tales
Reprinted with permission
