Tag Archives: wanderlust

Day Tripping — Montenegro and Lokrum

By Lynn Strough

Travelynn Tales

 

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Welcome to this week’s chapter in the ongoing series by our world traveler, Lynn Strough. Let’s do some day tripping!

Not far from Dubrovnik, Croatia, is the country of Montenegro, and it’s easy and inexpensive to go day tripping there. Montenegro is known for its beaches and the old city of Kotor, and they’re both worth a look, although on the day I was there, so were three cruise ships and thousands of other tourists, so not the ideal circumstances for my visit.

 

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In Kotor, you will find inside the city walls, plenty of places to shop and to dine –- it’s quite touristy. But you will also see some interesting architecture, and the inevitable beautiful doors and flapping laundry. An old fortress gives you some lovely views and more places to relax.

 

Many people go there to climb to the top of the mountain above Kotor, although we were told by our tour guide that we didn’t have time. Our guide also informed us on numerous occasions that Montenegro has become a playground for rich Russians. I don’t know if this is true, but there is certainly wealth displayed, in the marina in the form of large yachts, as well as on the nearby tiny island of Sveti Stefan where the 5-star Aman Sveti Stefan hotel beckons to those with deep pockets.

 

 

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It’s always fun to discover the local color of a new country, including markets and graffiti, and taking a day trip to Montenegro is certainly worth a visit, although it’s not on my top list of places to go. I’ve met people who love Montenegro and people who don’t, and to be fair, going on a tour — even a small group tour — isn’t the best way to get the full picture, although I hope you’ve enjoyed a few of mine.

 

Day trips to Mostar, Bosnia, are also available, although I was told it’s five hours on a bus round trip, with only an hour and 1/2 off the bus to see the famous Stari Most bridge, which is not the original but a reconstruction started in 2001. I skipped this.

 

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More my style for Dubrovnik day tripping, it’s just a little leap to the island of Lokrum, a nature reserve where it’s possible to get away from the crowds of the old town. You depart from the harbor in Dubrovnik, and it’s only a 15-minute scenic ride by taxi-boat. 6.30 euro includes your ride and entrance into the island park reserve. Bring your bathing suit, as you can swim off of one of the many ladders that sink into the sea, or then again, you may not need one.

 

On the island, you can also go hiking, past the Benedictine monastery and up to the top to the old fort, for some interesting history and amazing views. Wear good hiking shoes, as the trails are dirt and rocks and slippery pine needles. It smells like sea and balsam, and I heard a young man with a guitar, sitting on top of the fort strumming and singing.

 

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The only inhabitants of the island are feathered and full of eyes. Peacocks were brought over from the Canary Islands a century and a half ago, and wander the auto-less island freely. This guy strutted up to me, spread his fan tail, then turned his back on me. I wasn’t sure if he was flirting with me or mooning me.

 

There are a couple of restaurants on the island, but my recommendation is to pack a picnic and pick one of the many perfect rocky shores to dine with a view.

 

Day tripping from Dubrovnik is easy and affordable, so why not stay a few more days before heading off to the rest of the islands, any of over 1000 of them.

 

About Lynn Strough

Lynn is a 50-something-year-old woman whose incarnations in this life have included graphic designer, children’s book author and illustrator, public speaker, teacher, fine art painter, wine educator in the Napa Valley, and world traveler. Through current 31circumstances, she has found herself single, without a job or a home, and poised for a great adventure.

 

“You could consider me homeless and unemployed, but I prefer nomad and self-employed, as I pack up my skills and head off with my small backpack and even smaller savings to circumnavigate the globe (or at least go until the money runs out). Get ready to tag along for the ride…starting now!”

 

 

 

travelynnlogoAll images copyright Lynn Strough and Travelynn Tales

Reprinted with permission

Time to Split, Croatia

By Lynn Strough

Travelynn Tales

 

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Welcome to this week’s chapter in the ongoing series by our world traveler, Lynn Strough. Here, Lynn takes us to Split, Croatia.

Split is a vibrant town on Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast, which is known for Diocletian’s Palace, a fortress-like structure erected by the Roman emperor in the 4th century. Now it’s full of restaurants, shops, cathedrals, hotels, and tourists.

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Note that the cruise ships dump huge crowds here, but if you see the tour guides holding up a flag followed by the masses, just head the other direction. They usually go for the area with the most souvenir shops.

 

If you’re in the old town at the right time, you might bump into some men in metal or possibly even Santa Claus or Dumbledore.

 

You’ll notice many interesting architectural details both on the ground and up in the air if you climb the bell tower, which I have to say is a really high one! Inside the walls, you’ll find the beautiful Croatian National Theatre and just outside the walls, a colorful market.

 

 

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Speaking of walls, there is a fair amount of graffiti, but most of it is artistic and interesting. Oftentimes in Split, you’ll stumble on to a flea market, and you never know what you might find. And after the sun goes down, the colorful lights come on, if you’re into late nights with food festivals and free concerts… free, unless you care to donate some spare Kuna.

 

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If you tire of old town Split, there are many day trip opportunities, like taking a ferry to the island of Brac (pronounced “Brach”), which is known for its very famous beach, Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape). This beach is a protected nature park and it changes shape under the influence of tides and waves.

 

If water and beaches aren’t your thing, there’s Trogir, another walled village a short bus ride away from Split. It has the usual fortress you can climb for a view, plus canals, shops, restaurants, churches and the like for you to explore. Or you can set up office with a pizza and free wifi, if you need to get a little travel blogging done.

 

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Now, after a month in Croatia, it’s time for me to split Split and head to Slovenia. But looking back, what’s not to love about Croatia? I’d go back in a heartbeat, and highly recommend it for a beautiful, affordable, fun and sun-filled holiday for you.

 

About Lynn Strough

Lynn is a 50-something-year-old woman whose incarnations in this life have included graphic designer, children’s book author and illustrator, public speaker, teacher, fine art painter, wine educator in the Napa Valley, and world traveler. Through current circumstances, she has found herself single, without a job or a home, and poised for a great adventure.

 

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“You could consider me homeless and unemployed, but I prefer nomad and self-employed, as I pack up my skills and head off with my small backpack and even smaller savings to circumnavigate the globe (or at least go until the money runs out). Get ready to tag along for the ride…starting now!”

 

 

 

travelynnlogoAll images copyright Lynn Strough and Travelynn Tales

Reprinted with permission

Heavenly Hvar, Croatia

By Lynn Strough

TravelynnTales

 

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Welcome to this week’s chapter in the ongoing series by our world traveler, Lynn Strough. More Croatia is in store…

Hvar is glitzy and high-rolling, and it’s where the yachting crowd comes to see and be seen. On Hvar, you might go for a morning stroll and be so mesmerized by the scenery, that you’re still in the same spot at sunset. The Hula Hula Bar offers comfy lounge chairs for a pittance, with a view to die for.

 

I stopped for a breakfast orange juice, stayed for a salad for lunch, and found myself sipping a glass of wine watching the sun sink into the sea several hours later, and I wasn’t the only one. I met lots of people from all over the world who were also tethered to their chairs for the day, other than to periodically take a dip in the crystal clear, freezing cold water.

 

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If you prefer to be on the water, rather than in it, there are plenty of opportunities, from ferries to water taxis, power boats to boats powered by wind. Sailing is my preference, so my new friend Roma (from California) and I headed out for a half-day sail. They take up to 10 passengers on this 35′ racing boat modified as a cruiser, but we got lucky as it wasn’t peak season, and had the boat and Captain Bronco all to ourselves.

 

The gods provided great wind, and at 15 knots we were sailing. It was blowing 30 knots farther out, but Captain B decided to keep it a little less exciting and more comfortable, as it turns out Roma had never sailed before.

 

We sailed to a nearby tiny island, to Palmizana on San Clemente, for lunch. It’s a gorgeous spot, with a beautiful harbor to protect the yachts, and a few small restaurants. It’s a real life Garden of Eden, where if you look carefully, you might even spot Adam and Eve.

 

15Back on Hvar, we got ambitious and climbed the hill to the fortress for some spectacular views of the harbor and rooftops below. Hvar is a medieval city, with walls started in 1278. There’s a strong Venetian influence in the architecture, as the Venetians ruled here on more than one occasion.

 

Besides the walled old town and famous harbor, Hvar is also known for its vineyards and wines, olive groves, and especially its lavender fields, and it’s one of the sunniest islands. With a population of over 11,000, it’s the fourth most populated of the islands of Croatia.

 

 

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As with all of the water I’ve seen in Croatia — inland lakes, rivers and waterfalls, as well as the sea — it’s crystal clear and the most breathtaking shades of blues and greens.

 

You can spend a small fortune staying at one of the fancy hotels, or a very affordable $50 per night for a good-sized room that sleeps three, if you’re willing to stay out of town and walk a bit. I stayed at an “apartman,” a room in a guest house, about a 15-minute walk from the center of town, but I didn’t mind as the walk was along the sea with scenic views the whole way.

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And this location put me about half-way between the old town in one direction, and another fabulous beach in the other direction, also with a scenic walk to get there.

 

The town itself is filled with great little restaurants and shops, full of enticing things. Other than food, my one souvenir was a couple of little sachets of fragrant dried lavender to tuck into my well-worn hiking boots, a big improvement in their scent.

 

There are plenty of night clubs and bars if you want a vibrant night-life. And on Hvar, as in all of Croatia, I felt very safe, even walking around alone after dark, with the moon and stars and lamplight to guide me back to my temporary home.

 

31About Lynn Strough

Lynn is a 50-something-year-old woman whose incarnations in this life have included graphic designer, children’s book author and illustrator, public speaker, teacher, fine art painter, wine educator in the Napa Valley, and world traveler. Through current circumstances, she has found herself single, without a job or a home, and poised for a great adventure.

 

“You could consider me homeless and unemployed, but I prefer nomad and self-employed, as I pack up my skills and head off with my small backpack and even smaller savings to circumnavigate the globe (or at least go until the money runs out). Get ready to tag along for the ride…starting now!”

 

 

 

travelynnlogoAll images copyright Lynn Strough and Travelynn Tales

Reprinted with permission